Monday, August 30, 2010
War of the Flies
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Göteborg Air Show
When I was at Laurier, there was a French exchange student living on my floor. Her name was Marianne and she was from Grenoble. She chronically miscalculated on Canadian winter weather. When she looked out the window and saw one of those beautiful clear winter days when the sun is shining and the sky is a clear, cloudless blue, she thought that meant things had warmed up. We of course know that means exactly the opposite, that it's colder than crispy cold out so wear extra layers.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Squeezee Food
Marstrand
Following Joan’s advice to make formal plans to get out of the city every weekend, last Saturday, we went to Marstrand. Marstrand is an island on the west coast, about 45 km from Göteborg. It is the site of a fortress, Carlsten’s Fästning, and in the early 1900s, was a vacation spot for the wealthy. As it turned out, Saturday was History day, and there were many people dressed up in costume from the turn of the century.
Having read the weather forecast which suggested it would warm- and sunny- up in the afternoon, I suggested shorts and jackets rather than long pants and sleeves. Well, when we got out of the car at Koon to get the ferry to the island, it was decidedly un-warm. And windy! Oh, but the smell of the sea was wonderful!
The trip across on the ferry takes about 2 minutes. Honestly, you could swim it if you had to. It’s a real ferry - the kind that runs on a cable and always goes in a straight line. You have to pay to get to the island. The trip back is free.
Most of the ferry passengers turned right toward the buildings. Never one to follow the crowd unless necessary, I suggested we turn left. This direction led past a smaller fortress, and over to the swimming spot. The island is a giant piece of granite, and one swims in the sea, off the rocks. They have a smaller enclosed space, still fed by the sea, which is apparently for children (I’d swim there - no jellies). There’s also a diving board. I’m quite sure it would be lovely on a sunny day, but I had my red gloves on by that point, quietly shivering in my sweater and shorts. There are walking paths all over this small island, and we followed the one that ringed the edge for quite a while, discovering puddles left over from the previous night’s heavy rain, and small waterfalls leading that water back to the sea. Fortunately, when it did start to rain, we were at a cross path that lead into the interior of the island, so bedecked in our raincoats, we explored the woods. It all looked very Bruce Trail once you lost sight of the sea. We even found a cave - a real cave, complete with firepit and sitting log, big enough to camp in.
Lunch was at Berg’s Konditori, and we found a table beside the water. Nothing fancy - just sandwiches and drink, but very pleasant.
After lunch, we climbed the hill to the fortress. Construction on Carlsten fortress started in 1658 after a peace treaty transferred ownership of the area from Denmark to Sweden, and the Swedish King decided it would be necessary to build something for defence, and it was an active military post until 1882. Our Erik Dahlberg, he after whom our street is named, was the military engineer responsible for much of the early construction. All in all, construction took over 200 years, which made exploring really interesting wandering between the different phases of construction. All of the rooms were built into the walls so you can imagine how thick those walls are! One section is called the ‘peace roofs’ because it was only covered with wooden roofs during peace time. During wartime, the roofs were removed to protect the soldiers from splinters and possible fire. Carlesten was also the site of a prison and various experiments in ‘serving time’, most of which were doing hard labour. There is a secret tunnel which winds within the walls, up lots of stairs, all over the fortress.This was the site of the first revolving lighthouse. The best part was probably the view over the sea from the top of the fortress. The sun had come out and warmed things up significantly. The sun on the sea with the breeze, well, it was pretty fabulous.
Needless to say, we were really tired from walking all day. After a quick drink, we headed home to the flat. I wasn’t in the mood to cook, and Elizabeth voted for pizza, so I headed off on a walk to re-find a place I’d thought looked promising when I was here in April. Great pizza - we’ll go back. No English. Of all the places to have to use Swedish, we had to use it in a pizza parlour?
p.s. Fika is spelled f-i-k-a.
Friday, August 20, 2010
Friday Fika
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
skol
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Sweden - Chapter 4 : Tour of the Flat
It’s hot here today. This morning, there was no breeze at all. It’s been windier this afternoon, and currently it’s pouring. The rain is coming down so hard it’s broken a piece off the drainpipe across the street, so instead of neatly running onto the sidewalk, it’s spewing like a shower. I’d like to be able to do better with a weather forecast than “look outside”. I guess I’ll have to buy a newspaper tomorrow and see how far I get trying to read it.
So our apartment (flat) is on the 2nd floor. In France, streetlevel is called the rez de chausée. Here it’s called BV. Technically, we’re on the 1st floor, 1 above BV, but because you have to climb 2 sets of stairs to get here, that to me is the 2nd floor.
Our building is probably 200 years old give or take. We have 12 foot ceilings with elaborate mouldings, BIG windows. Everything is white with hardwood flooring. One wall in the front hall is round because it’s the other side of the circular stairs at the front (marble tile). There is a balcony off the living room, overlooking Vasagatan. There is another balcony off the kitchen that overlooks the ‘courtyard’. The back one is more Salem friendly. The railing is made of plexiglass so he can see through it, and the opening at the bottom is too narrow for him to roll under. Andrew’s window opens onto the kitchen balcony, and Salem has discovered he can jump through. We’re probably teaching him bad habits, letting him do that.
Andrew’s bedroom is the smallest. He’s got his double decker IKEA bed, you know the kind with the desk under it? With the current curtains, his room is dark and kinda cave like, but he doesn’t seem to mind. What’s exciting about this room is the high ceiling. In Milton, Andrew couldn’t even sit up straight in bed without hitting his head. Here he can stand up and has to stretch to touch the ceiling. And magically the bed squeak has disappeared. Or else our room is just farther away enough I can’t hear it anymore.
Elizabeth’s room is beautiful. She also looks over the ‘courtyard’ but her room is much larger. Along one wall is a built-in closet with a big mirror and 2 sets of metal drawers. Her bed in Milton was an antique 3/4 pine bed. Here she has a white enamel queen bed that will be coming home with us. One thing I’ve learned about Swedes so far, they know how to put together a good bed!
Our master bedroom looks out over Vasagatan, which has meant that the street noise has taken a bit of getting used to because I like having the windows open at night. Peter chose a beautiful black wrought iron bed, also bigger than at home (apparently because they didn’t have the size he wanted in stock the day he went shopping). Our light fixture is extraordinary. It’s a ball of paper flower / snowflakes that is easily 3 feet in diameter. There isn’t one place in our Milton house where it would fit either because of the room size or the ceiling height. We also have a wall of built-in California closets, but there aren’t enough drawers, so we were off to IKEA again today to buy a dresser.
The dining room opens off either the hall or our bedroom. I had visions of making it this grand, elegant space because of the architecture of the room. Well, with an unlimited budget... But given what I brought to work with, let’s just say it’s going to be furnished in ‘late century eclectic’ meaning dogs’ breakfast. Everything looks too tiny in the space. Maybe with a different tablecloth... The dining room table is a door from Queens Park. It was cut 1 inch too short, so they couldn’t use it. It’s 6’ 11” long by 3’ - a good size, but somehow it’s not working. Add to the equation, my lace curtains which have hung in every place I’ve ever lived since moving out. They’re panels, about 3’ X 5’, not quite long enough for the windows. Very French. Not however very Swedish. I haven’t seen anything similar in any windows in our neighbourhood. Still looking for a ceiling fixture that will do justice to the space but won’t cost a bomb..... No electic lights in there at all at the moment.
The kitchen. I love halogen potlights. We have them in the hall and in the kitchen. The kitchen has a blond hardwood floor and white cupboards. More cupboard space than you could imagine. Hardwood countertops like giant cutting boards. Glass cooktop. Microwave is too small to fit a dinner plate. I figured out how to change the time on the clock, but we can’t get it to heat anything for more than 30 seconds at a time. The windows overlook the ‘courtyard’, and it has the balcony too. I’ve sort of figured out the oven. Peter defrosted the freezer - that was messy. It was frozen shut when we arrived. One giant ice cube. One wall is round because it is the other side of the back stairs.
The back door to the kitchen leads through a set of double doors, to the back staircase. Circular of course. Stone or slate. Down 2 flights takes you to the courtyard, the garbage, the ‘recycling’ pile (they don’t really recycle here - not the way we do anyway), and our bikes which live outside. Up 3 flights takes you to the attic and the storage lockers for the building. It’s a trip back in time, going up there. It even still smells like wood fire, even though the chimneys and fireplaces have all been blocked off. Our space is easily the size of 4 parking spaces. It would be a great place for hide and seek on a rainy day.
The living room is the 1st room you see when you come in and it’s probably the most ‘set’. We’re still looking for tv stands, 1 for the one we brought from Canada to watch DVDs and play wi, and the other one for watching regular swedish tv. We won’t have cable for another couple of weeks. The landline, tv, and internet are all supposed to be hooked up Aug 31. No electric lights in there yet either - candlelight at night.
Pictures when a) they’re worth taking because the room looks nice enough to show off and b) I figure out how to upload them. We’ll start with Andrew, a view out the back, and my amazing bedroom light.
Slut for now. (slut (sloot) = done; finished)
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Sweden - Chapter 3
Another lovely summer day here on the balcony. It is now late afternoon, after 5. Saturdays here in Göteborg don’t have the hustle and rush they do at home. Stores close at 3 or 4pm. Sunday opening is only from noon to 2 or 3. Lots of pedestrian traffic, and of course, the cafés are busy. They’re always busy.
I know I said I’d tell the story of the movers and describe the flat today, but I’ve just figured out the laundry so I thought I’d talk about that instead.
It’s a front load washer for starters. I’m not used to that. The controls are all in Swedish, which I guess is a given. There is only an instruction book for the dryer. Hello Swedish / English dictionary! Fortunately, Peter has washed socks and undies before so he has a better idea than I do what to buttons to push. Start with something you can’t ‘hurt’ and see how that goes... Salem is fascinated by watching the water and clothes swoosh around. He can’t decide what to make of it. It’s kinda quiet so it isn't that scary. It moves so it’s interesting.
The dryer isn’t vented to the outside the way mine is at home. Instead there is a vatterbehälleren, a compartment that collects the moisture from the clothes, a condenser I suppose, that you empty för att garantera god funktion (best results) when drying.
Fingers crossed...